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Croatia

Croatia’s Dingac Wine

grape_leaf_purple_281086_m.jpgThe Dingac wine region near Dubrovnik is one of the smallest and most unique producers of red wines in the Mediterranean latitudes. It also produces some of the best wine in Europe.

The key to the Dingac wine, like all wine, is the crop of grapes. The key grapes in this case are known as the Plavac Mali grapes, which grow on the south side of a restricted peninsula in southern Dalmatia known as the Peljesac peninsula. The tiny 2 km patch that house the grapes is called the Dingac region.

The grapes grow in such a specific location, that families tending the grapes could not transplant them to the other side of a short hill and instead spent their time walking up and down the mountains each day to tend the grapes or riding donkeys with their tools.

Because of this, in the 1970’s the wine growing families pooled their money and constructed a tunnel through the mountain running about a half a kilometer in length so that they could go to work on their crop of grapes without having to go up and over the entire hill. Only workers with the Dingac grapes tend their plants after traversing through a tunnel each day to get to the plants and Dingac has enjoyed some extra notoriety because of this.

Dingac wines are a part of Croatian culture. Most oenophiles and food critics recognize Dingac and could tell you where it came from. Perhaps because of that, Dingac is protected under the international Geneva Convention, perhaps the only wine protected under a treaty in Europe. The wine itself is noted for its dark red color and distinguished aroma. The wine is credited with a full and harmonious taste, that errs toward being slightly sweet as it goes down.

Dingac wine is exclusively red wine and the Plavac Mali grapes are so sensitive that tiny changes like the angle of the sun and the position of the hill change the way that the grapes taste. These positions and angles have been refined in the Dingac region for the last 470 years at least, but the tradition of winemaking in the area goes back even farther than that, to the very first people to inhabit the peninsula.

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Articles Croatia

Buffet Fife in Split

Lunch at Buffet Fife in Split, Croatia. Photo by John J. Goddard.Ask any of the locals in Split. Fife (FEE-fay) is the quintessential konoba in Dalmatia’s largest city. The word konoba means ‘cellar’ in Dalmatian dialect, and since many small taverns began operating in family wine cellars, the term is used also to refer to casual dining and drinking establishments where traditional home cooking is all you’ll find. At Fife, you’ll find the requisite assortment of expertly grilled fish, meat and sausages along with a vast array of saucy braised meats, pastas, risottos, vegetables and sides. Order the traditional Dalmatian pot roast known as pašticada (pahsh-tee-TSAH-dah) with a side of potato gnocchi. You won’t be able to stop thinking about it for a week. If you have room for dessert there’s a variety of filled palačinke (pah-lah-CHEEN-keh, meaning ‘pancakes’) and a daily torte available.

All in all, the focus is on fresh ingredients prepared simply and traditionally, and Fife’s prices can’t be beat. For these reasons and others, it’s a unanimous favorite with families and senior Dalmatians in Split. Seating on the small terrace is accented by soft breezes that rattle nearby palms and carry whiffs of rosemary and lavender from the promenade. The sound of a busy Dalmatian harbor in late afternoon is all the music needed to complete the atmosphere, but if you opt to sit inside you’ll be serenaded by songbirds in hanging cages.

Located at the north end of the promenade in Split, Fife often does a brisk business during the high season. The waiters sometimes look as if they’re about to lose their minds (it’s part of the place’s charm), but food always arrives swiftly, without a hitch and served with a smile. The dress code is whatever you’re wearing, portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and reservations are hardly required. A short list of soft drinks, beers and Croatian wines is a more than adequate selection of liquid accompaniment.

Buffet Fife – Trumbićeva obala 11, Split
tel: +385 (0)21 345 233

About the writer:
John J. Goddard is an independent writer and veteran culinary professional. He has lived in Zagreb and on the Dalmatian coast, and travelled extensively throughout the republic. John is currently at work on a Dalmatian cookbook and a non-fictional account of his experiences as an expatriate chef in Croatia. He publishes DalmatianCooking.com and a few other blogs.

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Croatia

Mimice for Ribice

ribiceIf you’re looking for more than a snack, but not quite a full-blown meal in the center of Zagreb, Mimice (MEE-mee-tseh, meaning ‘things overlooked or hidden’) may be just the place for you. Set into the foundation of Ulica Nikole Jurišića 21, this mom-and-pop fish house is just a few blocks east of the main square. The selection of fried Adriatic fish, potatoes and a few simple vegetable dishes is offered a la carte, which makes the unpretentious hideaway ideal for those who enjoy sampling from one another’s plates. Service is cafeteria-style. Simply walk up to the counter, tell the lady in the hair net what you’d like, then pay for it (in cash) at the cash register.

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Articles Los Angeles

Cheap Laughs at the Downtown Comedy Club

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The Downtown Comedy Club is Los Angeles’ newest stand-up venue, a start up trying to get laughs from scratch in an area that is on its way back to life. Although it can’t match the big name talent of other comedy clubs in Los Angeles, the club offers a night of stand-up comedy for significantly less than the $40 the other places demand.

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Edinburgh Travel Tips

Sample Some Haggis in Edinburgh

haggisLet’s face it – Scotland isn’t exactly known for its cuisine, at least historically speaking. While there are some chefs these days that are doing more than just the usual meat and potatoes fare, Edinburgh probably isn’t the place to go for a food-centric holiday.

Unless, of course, you’re in the mood for some haggis.

Haggis is one of those legendary foods that often trotted out in conversations with the culinarily squeamish, but there’s very little reason it should be any more unappetizing than any other sausage. Of course, what’s the old joke about sausage? You don’t want to know how it’s made. Well, if you’re among that lot, you’ll want to look away, because you’re about to learn how haggis is made.

In most recipes, the innards of the haggis consist of the heart, liver and lungs of a sheep, minced together with onion, oatmeal, suet and spices. The entire mixture is then stuffed inside a sheep’s stomach (or a more modern sausage casing) and then boiled for about an hour. The end result is a large brownish sausage-looking thing, which is sliced into and shared. And though it might not sound very appetizing, unless you’re strictly an herbivore – give it a try. You only live once, right?

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Edinburgh

Trainspotting and Trendsetting

Like any other metropolis, Edinburgh has its share of glitz and glamour, stoops and slums. The thing that has always intrigued me is the way that trend and fashion are often born in the precincts of the poor, only to be worn out by the machinations of popular culture and the lumbering action of the bandwagon. Edinburgh’s Leith district provides an illustration.