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USA

Riding the Chisholm Trail in Oklahoma

Goofing around at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center (Scarborough photo)We’re still in cattle-driving mode, heading north from Fort Worth into Oklahoma on Highway 81, also known as the Chisholm Trail Highway because it roughly follows the route taken by thousands of head of cattle from south Texas to Abilene between 1867 and 1880.

After crossing the swirling Red River on the Texas-Oklahoma border, we drove to Duncan OK and the Chisholm Trail Heritage Center for an in-depth look at the Trail and its role in creating the American cowboy mystique that lives on today.

The Heritage Center is not very big but is nicely done; there is a room with plenty of buttons to push and interactive exhibits for kids, a Western art gallery and a really great multimedia film that makes the audience truly experience the Trail (stampeding cattle and all!)

I asked a passing museum official a question about the remuda, or group of spare drover/wrangler horses that accomplanied a cattle drive, and the man I asked happened to be Bill Benson, the enthusiastic Executive Director of the Center.

Paul Moore's magnificent sculpture of a cattle drive on the Chisholm Trail (Scarborough photo)

He was kind enough to give us some more historical background and detailed current information; did you know that there are still cattle rustlers today? Some cowboy-owners drive trucks to check and feed their herd, so the animals are used to coming to eat when a horn is honked or metal bucket rattled.

Guess what — the rustlers just do the same thing (honk or rattle) and when the cattle come running the docile bovines are loaded onto big trailers or trucks and taken away.

There’s a special section of Texas Rangers who do nothing but try to track down stolen livestock.

Bill took us out to a new semi-scale-model pathway of the Chisholm Trail, laid out along the ground from a marker representing the South Texas King Ranch to another marker representing the railhead at Abilene, Kansas, with explanations of major Trail stops along the way.

It certainly gave me and my daughter a clearer view of the sheer distance involved, especially when you aren’t getting from TX to Abilene in a 60-70 mph car (the pathway was patterned after a scale model of the Mississippi River on Mud Island in Memphis, Tennessee.)

We spent more time than we’d intended in Duncan, but it was worth it to linger and learn more about the history of the Wild West.

Technorati tags: family travel, Chisholm Trail, Oklahoma, travel

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USA

We’re in Kansas, Harry Potter….and your little dog, too!

Walking down the street in Emporia after the Muggle Block Party and midnight magic hour.So, it’s about fifteen minutes after midnight. What’s your teenager doing?

Mine’s already deep into the new Harry Potter, walking back to the minivan after excitedly acquiring said tome at the Town Crier Bookstore in Emporia, Kansas.

Our adventures in tracking down HP while in transit to Chicago are even featured in the latest edition of the Harry Potter blog carnival on The Pensieve.

Scored big Mom Points tonight….:)

Categories
USA

One night in Cowtown: Fort Worth

Fort Worth Stockyards (courtesy traveller2020 on flickr CC)Well, with me running around trying to do too much, we didn’t get on the road for the Great Midwest Road Trip until late in the day yesterday.

The drive up Interstate 35 from Austin to Fort Worth was the usual freeway fare; dull but fast. Our main objective last night was to walk through the historic Fort Worth Stockyards area and have a steak dinner, and we fell into bed last night after accomplishing both.

The Cattlemen’s Steakhouse has been serving up the sirloin since 1947, and last night my teenager and I wolfed down a NY strip and “Heart o’ Texas” ribeye between the two of us (with a Shiner Bock on draft for me, of course.)

They were incredibly tender and juicy, although my daughter struggled a little with her newly-installed braces. Just don’t look into the gaping, chewing mouth. 🙂

I recommend our hotel, the AmeriSuites, which is well-located in the Stockyards and quite comfortable, although currently under renovation to become a “Hyatt Place.”

There are some fun shops and saloons, but we’ll have to come back someday to see the daily (11:30 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.) small herd of Longhorn cattle that they run down the middle of the Stockyards main drag. Sure, it’s touristy, but I want to see it sometime.

We actually “met” the herd last night while walking around the district; the Longhorns were hanging out behind the building where the weekend rodeo and Wild West Show are staged, so we went up to the fence and said hello. I don’t think I’ve ever been that close to a Longhorn — they really are pretty impressive.

On weekends, there is a year-round rodeo, and a short version of Pawnee Bill’s Wild West Show. For an Annie Oakley fan like me, that would be great!

Now we need to get on the road for Oklahoma. After crossing the Red River and a stop at the Chisholm Trail Heritage Museum in Duncan, we’ll take part of old Route 66 from Oklahoma City to Tulsa, then up to Osage Hills State Park, where we’ll stay in small cabins built during the Depression by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

Categories
Blog USA

We’re off to explore the “Square States”

BlogHer '07 I'm  SpeakingToday my teenage daughter and I are launching the minivan on our US Midwest Road Trip.

I’m honored to be a Day One panelist speaker at the BlogHer blogging conference in Chicago 27-29 July, so we’re turning that into the travel writer’s mondo assignment and exploring the Midwest going and coming from central Texas.

Yes, Sainted Husband and my young son will meet us in Arkansas on the way back, and they have a full schedule of batting cages and water parks while we’re gone.

The method to my 2000-mile driving madness is improving my pathetic lack of knowledge of the American Midwest, or what one of my colleagues referred to as “those square states.”

OK, they’re not all square, but I just don’t know my Missouri from my Iowa, and it’s time to fix that.

We’re going to follow part of the old Chisholm Trail for the first couple of legs: Austin to Fort Worth and the cattle Stockyards, then north across the Red River (just like the Longhorns of yesteryear) to visit by the Chisholm Trail Museum in Duncan, Oklahoma before stopping overnight in Osage Indian country. We’ll stay at Osage Hills State Park in sturdy little log cabins built during the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps.

The next day, it’s into Kansas, with a visit to the site of the original Laura Ingalls Wilder “Little House on the Prairie.” This year is the 75th publication anniversary of the first book in the beloved series of real-life stories about Wilder’s pioneer family.

After that and a stop at the Kansas Flint Hills Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, we spend the night in Emporia, Kansas so we can get a copy (at midnight) of the new Harry Potter book at the local Town Crier bookstore.

Then it’s Kansas City and beyond, plus a stop with the Amish in northwest Missouri and a wave to Mark Twain in Hannibal, Missouri before we arrive in Chicago and strap on the Art Institute, Shedd Aquarium, a riverborne architecture tour and more fun in the “city of big shoulders.”

I would link to each place, but I’ve GOT to pack and get some sleep! Blog posts to follow during the journey (depending on Internet connections, of course) plus a few more posts from the Virginia trip.

Cool thing: the terrific public relations person who arranged our recent family press trip to the Colonial Williamsburg area is now so fired up about blogging, she registered for BlogHer today and is coming to hear me speak.

Wish me coherent thoughts as a panelist, and a good hair day.

Technorati tags: travel, blogging, family travel, road trip

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Blog

South America and family info in latest blog carnival

Family Travel posts are featured in two blog carnivals this week.

The current Carnival of Cities has posts from Preston to Dubai and is hosted by the Buenos Aires Argentina Guide.

As usual there are plenty of interesting places to visit (including my post about Historic Jamestowne, Virginia) but I wanted to call special attention to a couple of South American blogs, since I’ve never made it to either city mentioned….

Says carnival host Alan Patrick,

** São Paulo, Brazil: Tony Galvez posts about the slightly unusual idea of a Japanese Festival in Brazil on his Brazil Travel Blog, with lots of photos from this colorful event.

  ** Buenos Aires, Argentina: My friend Dalila presents her 7 things to do on your visit to Palermo Viejo, the coolest area of Buenos Aires, in her blog Trendy Palermo Viejo. Some nice tips there, Dalila – I really should get hold of some of those free maps of Palermo for myself. :)

The Carnival of Family Life is hosted by the Be A Good Mom blog, and among the many offerings is this heartrending post by Penelope Trunk, who presents My first day of marriage counseling posted at Brazen Careerist.  I read Penelope regularly and sometimes find her searing honesty uncomfortable (as do many commenters on the post) but I’m so glad that there are journalists like her out there.

Finally, my Perceptive Travel blog post on the joys of Japanese vending machines was featured on the new Carnival of Travel Articles, hosted by Travel Minx.

Technorati tags:  travel, blogging, family travel, blog carnival

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Asia

Summer Fireworks in Japan

Tokyo fireworks mosaic (courtesy HAMACHI! at Flickr's Creative Commons)You probably already know this if you’re in Japan right now or planning to go there in the next few weeks, but July is prime time of year for some great fireworks.

This is especially true in Tokyo, where the Sumida River explodes with color and locals wear traditional cotton summer yukata to watch the show.

The Japan National Tourist Office has a good online article on the Sumidagawa Hanabi Taikai (Sumida River Fireworks Display,) some of which my daughter and I enjoyed when she joined me for a few weeks in Tokyo a couple of years ago.

There are always matsuri or festivals going on in Japan, but there are a lot in the summer and they are fun to watch if you can catch one.

Check out AMPONTAN, one of my favorite Japan blogs, and his post about a mad morning dash through the streets of one of the cities in Kyushu.

In a country that is sometimes (OK, often) pretty confusing and overwhelming (even experienced travelers tend to hang onto their guidebook here) it’s nice to find an event that anyone can understand and appreciate.

Technorati tags: travel, family travel, Japan, Tokyo, fireworks

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USA

Explore before you go with travel video

Get it on film (courtesy Dom Dada on Flickr's Creative Commons)

Online video is a great concept, but I rarely have time to sift through the thousands of clips to find the good stuff, and then spend time watching the clips.

(You will never get me to confess my addiction to finding old 1980s Van Halen music videos and watching David Lee Roth jump around, no matter how many pointy objects you stick under my fingernails!)

Still, the idea of exploring a place through video before you travel there (or nostalgically looking at stuff after you return) has a lot of appeal.  I thought I’d try a little experiment from our family trip to Virginia and see what sorts of videos I could find to highlight some of the places that we visited.

My inspiration was a post at Brave New Traveler called 5 Places To Watch Free Travel Video Guides.

**  At GeoBeats, they feature non-US destinations, but they’re still in beta so I’m sure the offerings will expand.   I was immediately distracted by their numerous videos for Hong Kong, which as you know is probably my favorite city in the world.  There is plenty to see for London, Paris, India, Italy….go check them out.

**  Zoom And Go has a ton of clips, submitted by members called “Travel Reporters” (membership is free.)  That means that quality will vary greatly, but I was impressed with the level of professionalism of many of the videos; people really seemed at ease in front of the camera and they did a nice job splicing together scenes and music.  Some videos were rather jerky, but not intolerably so.  I was excited to find Shellseeker‘s gallery of photos and a few videos from Colonial Williamsburg, one of the places we visited in Virginia.  The little thumbnail boxes with a “play” arrow are the videos, and the rest are still photos.  She made a video of a lady singing and playing the pianoforte at the Peyton Randolph house.

**   I cannot recommend the Traveler Videos site, which basically aggregates video content from a variety of other sites. It was too slow and clunky, my computer froze up a few times, and many of the linked sites seemed very commercial.  I’d rather watch a regular person’s humble efforts to capture a place than deal with pop-ups and ad-packed sites.

**  The Travelistic video site was fun, and I found some unique twists on places we’d just visited, like this more urbanish/hip-hop video about Virginia Beach, made with a local guy who’s a poet.  Older kids would like it — he talks to skateboarders and surfers, and the video is made in the winter so you see the Virginia Beach oceanfront when it’s devoid of tourists. 

**  Obviously the granddaddy of online video is YouTube, and when I searched the YouTube travel section for Virginia I did find some good items among the weird, dumb ones like “Girls with Guns.”  There was art and culture in Norfolk VA, a nice long one with music about Jamestown, and when I searched for “Colonial Williamsburg” I got a long group of video links.  How about a short clip of the costumed Fifes and Drums as they march down Duke of Gloucester Street

More and more tourist Web sites and CVB (Convention and Visitor’s Bureau) Web sites are featuring podcast and video, and this part of Virginia is no exception. 

I found this page of Colonial Williamsburg-related audio and video, including a high-bandwidth video about Revolutionary City, which is sort of an ongoing living history play about the Revolution that is performed out in the streets of Williamsburg where visitors can enjoy it.  

National Geographic magazine did a big article about Jamestown and I found a page of video links about it (mostly talking heads, so not that great for kids, but full of info.) 

The Jamestown Settlement site has two Flash videos, one about the 1607 voyage of the colonists from England and another about Powhatan and Pocahontas.

I will confess that I’ve never owned a video camera myself, but we had a small one-time-use digital video camera with us on this Virginia trip.  I kept forgetting that I had it until finally on the last day, I filmed a few scenes in Williamsburg and discovered that I loved making little movies.  Once I fill up the camera and have it developed I’ll try to upload a few scenes to the blog, and I plan to keep practicing by buying another one for our upcoming road trip to Chicago. 

If I really do continue to enjoy filming, then I guess it’s time to start pricing video cameras for when I hit the lottery.  Meantime, enjoy surfing for travel videos; I certainly did.

Technorati tags: travel, family travel, travel videos, Virginia

Categories
USA

George Washington Fought Here: Yorktown

Yorktown Victory Center Colonial Army encampment (Scarborough photo)I’m going a little bit out of order here as I post about our family trip to Virginia; after my Historic Jamestowne write-up I was going to cover the living history museum at Jamestown Settlement, but decided to cover Yorktown next.

Now that we’re back home in Texas, I have a little more time to catch up on my blogging before my daughter and I turn right around and leave next week for our road trip to Chicago, where I’m speaking at the BlogHer blogging conference. Yes, it IS a good thing that I drink a lot of coffee!

Yorktown is set up much like Jamestown; you get a two-fer. There are the original sites, administered by the National Park Service, and then “living history museums” where reenactors and recreated places give visitors the flavor of the 1600s (Jamestown) or 1700s (Yorktown.)

It seems silly and duplicative at first, but when you see the original sites such as Yorktown Battlefield and Historic Jamestowne, it begins to make sense to put the larger museum buildings and re-created spots a slight distance from the historic parks because of space constraints and the need to protect the original areas and allow ongoing archaeological work to continue relatively undisturbed.

At Yorktown, we visited the Yorktown Victory Center, which includes a re-created Colonial Army encampment, a post-Revolution 1780s working farm and an extensive museum with galleries and a film. Our time was fairly limited, and even though I’m a terribly geeky plaque-reader who willingly reads every word of every plaque if there’s time, we had to move along quickly.

Visitors initially pass through the gift shop/tickets/Welcome building (horsewhipping children away from buying stuff and reminding everyone to go to the bathroom) and follow a pathway that lays out the timeline of events building up to the American Revolution.

For my international readers, the bottom line is that Colonial Americans did not like paying taxes without having some say in how they’d be taxed, what would be taxed and the amount, particularly when it came to their tea (hence, the 1773 Boston Tea Party when they dumped three hundred chests of tea into Boston Harbor to show their pique.) Many Colonials certainly considered themselves good British citizens until they felt that they were treated as second-class persons, then they got their pantaloons in a twist.

A Colonial Army soldier calls the troops to muster at Yorktown Victory Center (Scarborough photo)My seven year-old son actually paid more attention than I expected to the Yorktown Victory Center’s many displays, dioramas and “Witnesses to Revolution,” which were audio recordings made from original documents of those who lived in the times.

My teenage daughter also enjoyed the Center, but she felt that the featured short documentary film A Time of Revolution was a rather dry presentation of “a bunch of people talking” about their feelings and impressions of the Revolution.

The impressive museum galleries just went on and on, with a wealth of information about the course of the Revolutionary War and the events and converging of armies that led to Yorktown and the American victory (with considerable French help via Lafayette) over the British General Cornwallis.

I tried to give my son the ten-second summary — it’s a miracle that we won the Revolutionary War. George Washington fought an excellent insurgency with limited resources against a powerful, better-equipped foe. He didn’t have many outright victories, and he withdrew often to “fight another day.” His insurgency is taught at our nation’s graduate-level military War Colleges; I spent a week studying it while a student at the US Naval War College in Newport RI.

Since we won against a great power, Britain, using a well-executed insurgency, you’d think as a nation that we’d understand such warfare a little better than we do, and we’d understand that massive firepower and manpower do not always mean victory. I hope this lesson at least got through to my kids.

My teenager in costume, Yorktown Victory Center (Scarborough photo)The Colonial Army encampment at Yorktown Victory Center had numerous costumed historical interpreters and a small “tent city” with reproductions of period furnishings and accoutrements.

Interpreters did an excellent job of interacting with visitors, conducting musketry demonstrations, describing 1700s battlefield and dental surgery (one word — ick!) and showing how the soldiers were trained to fight.

We had less time on the working farm, but it was nicely laid out to show the crops, outbuildings, farm animals and challenges of small farmers, again with costumed and exceptionally knowledgeable interpreters. The assorted chickens and other farm fowl running around were a big hit.

I really like the living history concept, because it is so difficult to get kids engaged in the past unless you can engage their imaginations, which is hard to do in the standard museum setting.

Spend some time in Yorktown, and your children may actually pay attention in their school’s American History classes.

Technorati tags: travel, family travel, Yorktown, Virginia

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USA

Who’s on first in Jamestown?

Commemorative statue of Pocahontas at Historic Jamestowne (Scarborough photo)

Thirteen years before the Pilgrims landed in New England, a small colony of male English settlers arrived at a spot on Virginia’s James River that is now called Historic Jamestowne.  We visited the original 1607 landing site today, plus a larger exhibit called Jamestown Settlement, as a part of our Historic Triangle tour this week (Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown.)

Yesterday we explored the 1770s in Colonial Williamsburg, plus a little roller coaster action at Busch Gardens Europe, but much of today was spent learning about the first permanent English settlement in the New World.

It’s always interesting to see how historians (and tourist organizations) try to capture “firsts” in the United States.  I’m not even going to get into those Vikings, who really got here first.

Way back in my day, we were taught that the Pilgrims were first to come to America.

Then, OK, those guys in Jamestown were really first.

Well, maybe they should be called the first English settlers, since you have to acknowledge that the Spaniards founded the Florida city of St. Augustine even earlier, in 1565.  St. Augustine is now touted as “the oldest continuously occupied settlement of European origin in the United States.”

You have to call Jamestown the first permanent English settlement because some earlier English colonists gave it a go just south of here in North Carolina in 1584, but they disappeared around 1590 and are known today as the Lost Colony (visit Fort Raleigh in Manteo NC to learn more.)

Imagine trying to explain all of these “me first” gyrations to a bunch of kids.

Anyway, a visit to Jamestown is well worth your while.  There are two places to see; Historic Jamestowne and Jamestown Settlement.

The original landing site at Historic Jamestowne is managed by the National Park Service and is pretty low-key, with a few indoor exhibits, commemorative statues and some reconstructed buildings.

The big attraction here, for my family at least, was the ongoing work of archaeologists who are still busy excavating the site and bringing up new treasures from the dirt.  Kids can watch work in progress and talk to the scientists and volunteers.  The Archaearium building is carefully constructed over the original foundations of the brick statehouse building that was here from 1660-1698.  Visitors can look through observation ports into the ground below and view numerous artifacts that have been found throughout the Historic Jamestowne site.

My kids really liked the two skeletons that are on display (go figure!) complete with extensive information about the detailed forensic and research processes that scientists and historians use to determine who the people are and why they were important to the Colony.  Even my daughter’s school science classes on DNA came in handy, since that was a large part of the research puzzle.

We also learned the real story of Pocahontas; let’s just say that Disney didn’t quite get it right in the movie.

The second half of our visit was to Jamestown Settlement just down the road, where we found a reconstructed Powatan Indian village, the James Fort and replicas of the three ships that carried the colonists to Virginia, led by Captain Christopher Newport aboard the Susan Constant.

More on that as soon as I can find time in the schedule to write up the post for you.

Technorati tags: travel, family travel, Jamestown

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USA

Forsooth, the blogging is light in Virginia

John, our costumed interpreter, leads the prospective apprentices at Colonial Williamsburg (Scarborough photo)

We are in Virginia’s Williamsburg area for a jam-packed press trip that includes my entire family, and I’m rapidly discovering that there are only 24 hours in the day.

I’m not the fastest blogger in the West, and by the time we straggle back to our lodgings at night I’m not able to post as often as I’d planned about our adventures in tri-cornered hats. 

Suffice it to say that today was half a “living history event” in Colonial Williamsburg and half a “screaming event” on various roller coasters at the Busch Gardens Europe theme park. 

In the morning, the kids in our group learned about the apprentice trades in the 1700s and visited a working weaver, brickmakers and a silversmith on an Apprentice Tour, one of many special visitor programs.  They had a great time, but temperatures were in the 90s F and a heat index above 100 degrees F, so there were some pretty wilted apprentices (and parents.)

At Busch Gardens, all of us except our too-young son had a chance to check out the new floorless dive coaster Griffon; plunging 205 feet, 90 degrees straight down, at up to 70 miles an hour. 

Just at the beginning of the ride. 

Yes, of course we loved it!

We will roll out and hit it hard again early tomorrow with the Jamestown Settlement, the first permanent English settlement in America and better known as home to Pocahontas and John Smith.

I hope to have a little break in the action tomorrow afternoon and write up some more posts for you.

Technorati tags: travel, family travel, Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia