Month: August 2011

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Planning a Trip Portugal Transportation travel guide

Getting from Lisbon to Porto (and return)

Lisbon is the capital of Portugal and has recently started to gain more and more popularity among travelers. It is one of the rare Western European cities which faces the water and knows how to use this for its own advantage. The intimate alleys, the superb views and the contemporary culture make it a travel destination year round.

Porto is the second largest city in the country. It is a busy industrial and commercial central. Its historical city has been awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO in 1996. The historical sites, along with the lovely scenery enchant any traveler.

Those planning a vacation in Portugal most often plan to visit both cities. So knowing how to get between them cheap and easy is a must.

Quick summary

Flying takes less than one hour, but for whatever reason, it’s cheaper to book a return flight between the two cities, rather than a one way flight. Still, for €132 per person you can travel between the Lisbon and Porto. A much better option is the train, which takes 3 hours and is also cheap (from €24 per person, one way).

Flights from Lisbon (airport code: LIS) to Porto

Aeroporto da Portela (airport code: LIS) serves Lisbon and is the largest international airport in Portugal. It is the main hub for TAP Portugal. Sá Carneiro Airport (airport code: OPO) serves Porto and is the 3rd largest airport in the country. The only airline running flights between Lisbon and Porto is TAP Portugal. The flight time is 55 min and the one way adult fare is €148. Return fares start at €132 per person.

>>read more about Cheap Flights to Lisbon

Trains from Lisbon to Porto

The national rail company (CP) offers direct trains from Lisbon to Porto. There are 18 departures daily and the travel time is 3 hours. The trains depart either from Lisboa – Entrecampos or Oriente. The 2nd class (turistica) fares start at €24 for an adult, one way. There are two types of trains to choose from: InterCity and Alfa-Pendular. Tickets can be bought here

>>read more about Train Travel in Portugal

Buses from Lisbon to Porto

Rede Expressos runs buses between Lisbon and Porto. Unfortunately, at the time this article was written neither versions (English or Portuguese) of the website allow us to check the timetable or the prices.
Other website which lists buses from various companies gave the price for the Rede bus: €16.50 for an adult, one way. The trail time is 3 h 30 min.

>>read more about Bus Travel in Portugal

Driving from Lisbon to Porto

Driving from Lisbon to Porto is a real pleasure and you’ll be rewarded with superb views. So, rent a car , get a map and plan your trip. The shortest route is 317 km and you should be able to cover it in 3 hours. Please note that you’ll have to pay tolls.

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England travel guide

Travel Tips: When London Returns to Normal

London is in the news right now for all the wrong reasons, along with more cities across England with each passing day. People are starting to try to take their city back from the looters and vandals, but it’s clear that it’s going to take a lot more than London’s firefighters to quell the flames that were ignited over the weekend.

Eventually, however, the fires will be put out, the windows repaired, the shops re-stocked with merchandise, and – hopefully – the hoodlums appropriately punished. And although it may not look like that will happen anytime soon when you’re watching the BBC right now, London especially has an enormous incentive to make quick work of the cleanup – the city will increasingly be in the spotlight between now and next summer’s Olympics.

If you’ve got a trip to London planned in the near future, it may be smart to keep track of the news to see if you might want to postpone your trip. It’s not as if London or England as a whole is a dangerous place to be, but if you can avoid being around this kind of unpredictable violence that’s probably smart. If you’re visiting a few months from now or planning a trip to see the Olympics, however, it’s likely you’ll see very little of the damage visible on the city streets right now.

London and the rest of England will want to put this behind them as soon as possible, and that includes bringing tourists back. For those future trips you’re thinking about, here are some travel tips you might find useful:

In the meantime, keep up with what’s going on in London and throughout the country by checking the following sites for reports:

Categories
travel guide Turkey

Getting from Istanbul to Cappadocia (and return)

Cappadocia, located in the Central Anatolia region of Turkey, is best known for its moon-like landscape, underground cities, houses carved in the rock and churches in the caves. There are seven cities in Cappadocia; Nevsehir is the capital of the region.

Quick summary

Flying is the quickest and cheapest way to get from Istanbul to Cappadocia. Fly from Istanbul Sabiha (SAW) to Kayseri as the rates are really low. You can also choose to travel by train to Kayseri. Once in Kayseri, take a bus to Goreme or other cities in the area.

Flights from Istanbul to Cappadocia

There are two airports which you can use to fly from Istanbul to Cappadocia:

  • Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR) in Kayseri
  • Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV)

From Istanbul Ataturk Airport (IST) there are non-stop flights to Kayseri operated by Turkish Airlines. The flight time is 1h 25 min and the one way ticket is €231 per person. From Istanbul Sabiha (SAW) you can fly on the low-cost carrier Pegasus to Kayseri and the one way ticket is only €28 per person (same flight time).

Flights from Istanbul Ataturk (IST) to Nevsehir start on €231 per person, one way, and a run by Turkish Airlines. The flight time is 1h 15 min. Unfortunately there are no flights from Istanbul Sabiha (SAW) to Nevsehir.

>>read more about Cheap Flights to Istanbul

Buses from Istanbul to Cappadocia

Most bus companies offer connections from Istanbul to both Nevsehir and Göreme. The travel time is 12 hours. The one way adult ticket is TL 50 (about US$33).

>>read more about Bus travel in Turkey

Trains from Istanbul to Cappadocia

Taking the sleeper train from Istanbul to Ankara, Konya or Kayseri and then a short bus ride to Goreme is a very good option. You can sleep during the night and then have breakfast in the morning, before continuing by bus. Alternatively, you can rent a car from Ankara, Konya or Kayseri. Kayseri is the closest to Goreme (just 70 km).

The ticket from Istanbul to Kayseri is TL 50 (about US$33) per person, one way, sleeper. It’s slightly more expensive to travel to Konya (TL 78 , about US$52 per person, one way, sleeper).

>>read more about Train travel in Turkey

Driving from Istanbul to Cappadocia

This is a long drive – 741 km / 9 h 40 min – and it only makes sense if you share the cost of car rental and fuel. Don’t forget to account for the road toll as well. Should you choose to drive to Cappadocia from Istanbul, do plan some stops along the way or switch drivers.

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Guatemala

The Santa Maria Volcano

Volcanoes are among the most interesting and feared natural wonders in the world. While their lava shows and raw power are what makes them so beautiful and intriguing, they are also what make volcanoes so dangerous. Lava flows can destroy entire towns and ash eruptions can kill people and livestock, damage homes, and affect an area’s climate for year’s to come…not mention grounding planes.  Still, when given the chance to get up close to an erupting volcano, most of us take it.

In Guatemala, the Santa Maria volcano stands at 3,772 meters. Eruptions have been happening here for 30,000 years. In 1902 a strong eruption formed a crater on the side of the volcano and caused extensive damage in the region.  Today it’s one of the world’s most active volcanoes; the nearby town of  El Palmar, has been destroyed twice by lahars, volcanic mudflows that slide down the mountain and harden to a concrete solid when they stop. Despite the danger the volcano presents, intrepid travelers can hike around the area as part of a guided tour.

Interested in getting up close to Santa Maria? Buy an air ticket to Guatemala, look for budget accommodation in Guatemala, and then pray the volcano stays quite for your visit.

Photo by DaveWilsonPhotography

Categories
travel guide Turkey

Getting from Istanbul to Izmir (and return)

Izmir is the third largest city in Turkey, located on the Central Aegean coast. It is the second busiest port in the country and a major transportation hub. Getting between Istanbul and Izmir is not hard at all but choosing the means of transport depends on your time and budget.

Quick summary

The cheapest and quickest way to travel between Istanbul and Izmir is by plane. Low cost carriers connect the two travel hubs making flights very affordable (from €21 per person, one way). It’s just as cheap to travel by train and ferry, but the travel time is 8 hours.

Flights from Istanbul to Izmir

It is possible to book a direct flight from Istanbul Ataturk Airport (IST) into Izmir. Onu Air offers from flights from €27 per person, one way, while if you choose to fly on Atlas Jet the price is €30 per person, one way. The travel time is an hour.

You can also fly from the second airport in Istanbul – Sabiha (SAW) – to Izmir on Pegasus. The prices start at €21 per person, one way. The travel time is also an hour.

>>read more about Flights to Istanbul

Trains and ferries from Istanbul to Izmir

Izmir is served by two railway stations. Alsancak station is used for the commuter and local routes. There aren’t direct trains from Istanbul to Izmir. You have to change and take a ferry at Bandirma. It takes 2 hours to get from Istanbul to Bandirma by fast ferry; the train to Izmir from Bandirma takes 6 hours. A combined ticket is YTL 32 (about US$22) one way.

Another option is to travel via Eskisehir only by train. The total travel time is 8 hours (except the time you’ll wait for the connecting train in Eskisehir).

>>read more about Train travel in Turkey

Buses from Istanbul to Izmir

Buses between Istanbul and Izmir take 9-10 hours. Regular stops for toilets are made. Travelers are provided with hot drinks, water and snacks, included in the ticket price.

>>read more about Bus travel in Turkey

Driving from Istanbul to Izmir

If you want to explore Turkey at your own pace, consider renting a car and driving between the two cities. The driving distance is 564 km and the travel time is almost 8 h and 30 min.

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Portugal Things to Do

Things to Do in Porto

Porto is best known as the center of Portugal’s port wine production, and that’s probably what most visitors come for. Yet this charming city on the Douro river, with its colorful houses stacked seemingly on top of one another as the climb the city’s steep hills, is worth a visit even if you aren’t a wine-lover. For a quick taste, plan on 2-3 days, plus another if you plan to take a day trip to the nearby Douro Valley.

Museums and sightseeing

Start in the Ribeira, the riverfront of Porto, with its sidewalk cafes and plenty of tourists. Head up into the city center to see the Centro Português de Fotografia (Portuguese Photography Museum), the Fundação de Serralves modern art museum, and the Casa da Música (House of Music) concert hall. Take a stroll through the Mercado do Bolhão, a traditional market and stop for a photo op (or to shop) at Livraria Lello, one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.

For art and history buffs, there’s even more to explore. Check out the Casa do Infante, where Prince Henry the Navigator was supposedly born (now a museum), the beautiful Palacio da Bolsa (19th century stock exchange) and the Museu do Carro Eléctrico (transit museum). For one of the best views in the city, climb the 200 stairs of the tower of the Torre dos Clérigos church. Finally, see more of the river on a short cruise of the Douro. These cost only 10 euros and last about an hour.

Port tasting

Even if you aren’t a wine connoisseur, don’t miss a visit to at least one of Porto’s port wine cellars. Some offer tours and tastings, others just offer tastings or wine flights. Some charge a fee while others are free. At at some you’ll be the only person in the room while others will be packed with tourists. Sample from a few different places, or head to the Port Wine Institute to take your pick from hundreds of options in all styles and price ranges.

>> Read more on port tasting in Porto

Day trips

From Porto, you can take a cruise upriver to the Douro Valley. Full day cruises range from 50-100 euros per person and may include lunch or a tour and tasting at one of the valley’s wineries.  Visit the town of Guimarães (about 30 minutes away by train) which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was chosen as a 2012 Capital of Culture for its many art galleries and museum and lively art and music scenes. Closer to the city, you can visit Foz, a sophisticated seaside village  with lots of cafés and restaurants a short bus ride away from Porto.

Dining

As in Lisbon and the rest of Portugal, cuisine in Porto relies heavily on fresh fish. Try bacalhau (cod) grilled, broiled, poached, or in a soup, or opt for other popular fish like grilled sardines, horse mackerel, cuttlefish, grouper, turbot, or mullet. Portuguese food also uses a lot of pork and sausage. Try the suckling pig or sausages like “chouriço” or “linguiça.” Alheira, a smoked sausage made of pork, poultry meat, wheat bread and olive oil, seasoned with salt, garlic and paprika, can also be found on menus all over Porto.  For a splurge meal and a modern take on traditional local food, make reservations for the dining room at the beautiful Yeatman Hotel. And if you tire of Portuguese food, check out Sitar (one of a handful of restaurants offering international food) for excellent Indian food.

If you try no other Portuguese food though, make sure you sample a Francesinha (or Little Frenchie). The slightly monstrous-looking Francesinha is the artery-clogging Portuguese version of the croque monsieur. A sandwich of  wet-cured ham, linguiça, and steak or roast meat, covered with melted cheese and topped with a thick tomato and beer sauce, it’s served with french fries for 7-11 euros each and can be found all over Porto.

As elsewhere in the country, breakfast is a very light meal – coffee and bread or pastry – usually had in a cafe. Lunch may be served between noon and 3pm and dinner is generally between 8 and 11pm. When you sit to eat, a plate of sausage, cheese or bread may be brought; just be aware that this is not free and you will be charged for what you eat.

Photos by: b00nj, iNolsonRocha

Categories
Portugal Things to Do

Port Tasting in Porto

Porto (or Oporto) is the home of port wine. In the early 1700′s England was at war with France and so the people of England (longing for the delicious wine of France) searched for an alternative. They discovered the wines of Portugal, but quickly realized that the wine was spoiling before it made the long trip from Portugal to England. So the clever Brits devised a method of fortifying the wine to increase its longevity.

They added a neutral grape spirit, called aguardente, which stops fermentation and keeps more of the natural sugar intact. The wines are then aged in barrels (or bottles depending on the style ). Now we have white port, ruby port, tawny port, late bottled vintage, colheita, blends, and vintage port.

In the early days of the port industry, the grapes were grown in the Douro and then sent to Porto to be made into wine and aged in the city’s cellars, which are called caves. This was all done in Porto so that the finished product could be easily shipped the short distance down the river to the Atlantic and then on to England. Now, while the grapes are still grown in the Douro Valley, the rest of the process is completed there as well, leaving many of Porto’s wine caves just for show or to welcome people who want to come taste the port wine. In fact, port tasting is the main activity in Porto and one you should not skip.

The port houses of Porto aren’t actually in Porto. They’re across the river (a 5-10 minute walk) in Vila Nova de Gaia. Just over the iron-trellised Ponte Luís I bridge (which may look familiar in style, as it was made by a partner of Eiffel) there are over a dozen port houses that open their doors for free or low-cost tasting.

My advice is to start at the top of the hill and work your way down. Like Porto, Vila Nova de Gaia is quite hilly, and steep cobblestone streets become more difficult to navigate after a few glasses of port. And be sure to eat before you go, as there are only a handle of dining options on this side and most are down by the riverfront. There are signs and arrows throughout the town pointing you to nearby port houses (most hotels have a map as well) from the more touristy Sandeman (which does have an excellent cafe attached for a quick snack), to the famous Taylor’s and Graham’s. I preferred the lesser-known (and still Portuguese owned) Wiese and Krohn (where we were the only people on the tour – as compared to Sandeman’s sold-out tour of more than 30 people!), Burmester, and Kopke.

Some, like Croft, Wiese and Krohn, and Taylor’s, offer free tours. On the tours, which last about 10-30 minutes, you’ll learn more about the history of port and how it is made.  Sandeman and a few others change a small fee for the tour and tasting. And still others, like Kopke, just have tasting rooms with no tours.

Though there is no tour at Kopke, I highly recommend visiting this oldest port house. You have to pay for samples, which you can  try by the glass or flight paired with chocolates. Tastes range from 1-3 euros on up to 8-15 (and much, much higher) depending on the age and style. I recommend going with a flight; I enjoyed two Portuguese wines and three port wines with accompanying chocolates for just 13 euros. If you’d rather not schlep from port house to port house and don’t mind paying for tastes, head to the Port Wine Institute. Here, overlooking the Douro River on the Porto side,  you can sample from hundreds of ports starting at 1 euro per glass.

For more port wine fun, you can book a day cruise down the Douro to see where the grapes are grown (some tours also include a stop at one winery).  And if you want the wine theme to carry over into your hotel, stay at The Yeatman Hotel, in Vila Nova de Gaia side, where wine themed rooms with private patios are  just steps away from the port caves.

>> Read more about the Yeatman

Photos by: Katie Hammel ,  rene j,

Categories
Things to Do

Seeking Out Celebrity in Italy

When we are surrounded by something all the time, it loses its allure – even if it’s something that’s supposed to be enticing. The rest of the world might shriek when they see celebrities walking down the street, but in LA? That would be a lot of shrieking. Angelenos are famously unflappable when it comes to celebrity, and with good reason. But what about when LA residents go on vacation?

Popular wisdom holds that we become different people when we travel – we lose inhibitions, we try things we would ordinarily shun, and we indulge in things we might call guilty pleasures back home. In other words, when LA residents go on holiday to Italy, there’s no reason not to get a bit giddy should you come upon any of the places where movies were shot.

Who among us, no matter how jaded, can avoid the comparison with “La Dolce Vita” upon seeing the Trevi Fountain? Or think of “Roman Holiday” when sticking our own hand into the Mouth of Truth? It should be no different, then, seeing any of the movie hotels in Italy, getting a peek at rooms or grand hotel lobbies where famous scenes were filmed.

Some of the more famous movie hotels may be out of reach of the average traveler, but that doesn’t mean you can’t look at them from the outside and recall what parts of the movie were filmed there. For instance, there really is a gorgeous room in Venice’s Hotel Danieli where Angelina Jolie left Johnny Depp sleeping on the sofa in “The Tourist.” The stunning Positano hotel in the film “Only You” starring Marisa Tomei and Robert Downey Jr. is Le Sirenuse, and it remains a boutique budget-buster to this day.

One movie hotel you might actually be able to afford is the Hotel degli Orafi in Florence, made famous by the 1985 movie “A Room With a View.” As you might imagine, some of the rooms in the hotel overlook the Arno River – but (and this won’t surprise you if you’ve seen the movie) some of the rooms don’t have river views. In other words, if re-living the movie is your top priority, book room 414 or another of the rooms on the river-side of the building.

Above all, it’s okay to fawn over the places in Italy that have served as the backdrop for films over the years. The truth is there are plenty of reasons to fawn over them anyway.

Tempted? Book cheap tickets to Florence and find out what your itinerary could look like if you were spending 4 days in Florence.

photo of Hotel Danieli lobby by quatre mains

Categories
Portugal

Where to Stay in Porto: The Yeatman Hotel

Set on a hill overlooking Porto on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the Duoro River, the Yeatman Hotel is possibly one of the city’s most luxurious hotels. Perfect for honeymooners or those looking to make their stay in Porto extra special, this wine-themed hotel is among the best accommodation options in the city. One can throw a lot of superlatives around when describing it; it’s classy, posh, grandiose, opulent. Like a black patent Louboutin stiletto with a bright red sole, it’s at once classic and modern, elegant and sexy.

The rooms

The 82 rooms at the Yeatman are spacious with sliding glass doors that open onto private patios and offer floor-to-ceiling views of Porto just across the river.

The rooms are named after Portuguese wine producers, and each is decorated with soft hues of teal, lime and bright yellow, with leather ottomans, plus easy chairs, and ornate headboards, along with distinctive touches like wine bottles, original artwork, and Portuguese ceramic tiles. Each has a soft bed, work desk,  laptop safe, ample closet space, and flat screen tv.

The bathrooms have heated tile floors and deep soaking tubs, from which (if you open the louvered shutters that separate the bathroom from the bedroom) you enjoy the same beautiful views of the city. Caudalie Vinotherapie products are provided, as well as soft, fluffy robes.

The food and wine

As you might expect from a luxury wine-themed hotel, there are several spots for relaxing with a snack and a glass of port or wine. In addition to the pool area lounge and the top floor terrace, there’s Dick’s Bar, which serves cocktails and wines, or the Library Bar, where guests can also enjoy a cigar from the hotel’s humidor. But the main culinary attraction is the hotel’s restaurant, which serves modern versions of traditional Portuguese food in set tasting menus matched with wine. Guests can also opt to have a private dinner served on their room’s terrace.

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The spa

Even if you don’t stay at the Yeatman, don’t miss indulging in a spa treatment. Prices start at 65-105 euros for wraps, scrubs and massages using Caudalie Vinotherapie products. You can also book single or multi-day packages that start at 210 euros, not including accommodation. Several treatments use wine or grapes, like the moisturizing honey and wine wrap, the firming merlot scrub or the relaxing grape bath. My husband and I opted for a “pulp friction” massage (for two) with fresh grapes, and while I will say the sensation of having cold grapes squeezed and rubbed all over me while the juice ran over my body was a bit strange, at the end I felt very relaxed and refreshed, and my skin was soft, smooth, and hydrated.

Spa guests are also welcome to use the relaxation area, the sauna, the Roman baths, the shower experience (which alternates pressure and temperature in a private shower),  foot baths, ice fountain, heated stone lounger, and indoor pool.

The grounds

The Yeatman sits on the top of a hill on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the Douro River, close to Porto’s many port wine houses. In addition to the spa and dining options, there’s a large garden and croquet lawn, an outdoor pool, an indoor pool, several lounge areas, a state-of-the-art fitness center, and eleven meeting and event rooms.

The experience

While the rooms at the Yeatman meet luxury standards and the location is ideal for exploring all the delights of Porto, what really makes the Yeatman shine is the level of service. Staff is always available but unobtrusive, ready to help with directions, call a taxi, or arrange dinner reservations. When I discovered I’d left the adapter for my phone charger, the staff happily lent me one for my stay.

For those traveling with kids, the Yeatman also provides all day babysitting and entertainment as part of the Kids Club. And the Yeatman is eco-friendly – solar panels heat the water, low-energy lighting is used throughout, the hotel sources supplies locally, and the gardens are a haven for local birds and plant life.

For a luxury wine getaway in the Porto, I highly recommend the Yeatman. Staying here doesn’t come cheap, but if you can afford the splurge, it’s well worth it for the beautiful views, elegant rooms, and excellent service. If you can’t swing an overnight, be sure to stop by for a drink and the view or for an indulgent spa treatment.

All photos by the author and may not be used without permission. I was a guest of the Yeatman Hotel, but my opinions are my own.

Categories
travel guide Turkey

Train Travel in Turkey

Buses in Turkey are a cheap way to get around. And they are usually faster than trains. But do you really want to be stuck in a bus for 12 hours, without being able to move at all? The alternative is the inexpensive, civilized, air conditioned, but , sometimes, slower train. You can also choose a sleeper for over night travel and there are restaurant cars for your meals. Plus, you have quite a bit of space to move around.

How to get to Turkey by train

There are direct connections from Romania and Bulgaria on the Balkan Express. You can also get to Turkey by train from Greece on the Filia-Dostluk Express and from Iran on the Trans-Asya Ekspresi. There are also daily connections to Budapest (Hungary) via Bucharest (Romania).

Domestic train travel in Turkey

The best trains in Turkey are now modern and are excellent choices for long distance travel. However, it is true that the rail network is limited, so you’ll have to use the bus where you cannot take the train and for the short distances.

There is a high speed service between Istanbul and Ankara, which drastically reduces the travel time (by 2013 it’s expected to take this journey in just 3 hours, beating both the plane and the bus). Istanbul is also connected to Izmir, Bursa, Bodrum, Eastern Turkey and cities in Cappadocia; while Ankara is also connected to Izmir, Adana, Konya and Eastern Turkey. There are no train services to Antalya, Marmaris, and Alanya, so to get to these cities you need to combine train and bus travel.

How to get tickets online

The TCDD website https://www.tcdd.gov.tr/ offers the possibility to book the tickets online , but you’ll need to create a user/password before you actually book the ticket. Remember to print out the reservation.

Alternatively, you can get the tickets directly from the train station. If you travel during the high season, chances are that the sleepers are already full; but otherwise you should be able to book a seat several days before departure.

InterRail and Rail Europe

Rail Europe doesn’t offer point-to-point tickets for Turkey, but you can get a Balkans Pass which also offers the possibility to travel in Greece, Bulgaria, Macedonia, and Romania.

On the other hand, InterRail has the Turkey Pass which allows for travel on all trains operated by TCDD.

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