By guest columnist John J. Goddard
Driving west from Zagreb to the Istrian peninsula is a bit like bidding farewell to a tipsy uncle at a boisterous family gathering as you retreat to the peace of a cottage in the forest. Croatia’s remarkable diversity isn’t reflected only in its food, dialects and microclimates, but also in the distinctive moods that hang in the air of each and every locale. While Zagreb chuckles mischievously behind a deceptive façade of imposing architecture and lingering Austro-Hungarian formality, the soul of Istria whispers dark green aromas of sea mist, pine smoke and herbs from the crisp silence of wooded hills.
The sleepy Istrian village of Smoljanci exemplifies such serenity. While it’s a bit of a trek from Zagreb, it’s only a short drive from the fairytale city of Rovinj. Tourism is not highly developed in Smoljanci, but if you’re up for some classic Istrian cooking with local wine and brandy, the rolling estate at Stancija 1904 is worth the extra coin for a night or two.